Wild Winterberry Sweater pattern was supposed to be released at the end of 2023 but unfortunately sometimes life has other ideas, so this will be my first pattern release of 2024!
This sweater/jumper works up so fast and you can adjust it's length really easily, I do hope you will enjoy making it!
And not to worry, pattern is for everyone from sizes small to 5XL and I'd say it's unisex, what do you think?
Enjoy crocheting!
Crochet language: US Crochet terms
If you prefer to purchase pdf version of this pattern, follow this link :)
You will need:
5 mm crochet hook
Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers
DK (size 3) yarn of your choice.
This pattern requires basic knowledge of the following crochet stitches:
Slip stitch, chain, single crochet
Foundation single crochet
Half double crochet
How to increase and decrease
How to crochet into back loops and the third loop
Puff stitch (see special stitches)
Special stitches:
Puff stitch - Yarn over and insert your hook into the indicated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a long loop. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch twice. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook. Do not ch 1 to close the puff.
Yarn requirements
main colour (MC)
accent colour (AC)
(approximately):
S: MC 400/AC 300 yards
M: MC 500/AC 400 yards
L: MC 600/ AC 450 yards
XL: MC 700/AC 550 yards
2XL: MC 850/AC 625 yards
3XL: MC 900/AC 660 yards
4XL: MC 1000/AC 700 yards
5XL: MC 1100/AC 725 yards
Finished measurements:
S: fits up to 32” bust
M: fits up to 36” bust
L: fits up to 40” bust
XL: fits up to 44” bust
2XL: fits up to 48” bust
3XL: fits up to 52” bust
4XL: fits up to 56” bust
5XL: fits up to 60” bust
Abbreviations:
st(s): stitch(es)
R: round/row
ch: chain
slst: slip stitch
beg: beginning
FSC: foundation single crochet
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
hdc dec: half double crochet decrease
BLO: crochet into back loop only
ps: puff stitch
__ repeat instructions from to
Changing colour:
Insert hook into next stitch, pull through new colour and complete slip stitch.
Stitch count per size written as follows:
S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Gauge/tension:
Using 5mm hook and DK yarn
R 1: FSC 15, ch 1 and turn work.
R 2: Sc into first stitch, ps into next stitch, repeat until the end of the row finishing with sc into the final stitch, ch 1 and turn work (7 puff sts and 8 sc).
R 3: sc into every st, ch 1. Turn (15 sts).
R 4: hdc into every st, ch 1. Turn (15 sts).
R 5: BLOsc into every st, ch 1. Turn (15 sts).
R 6 - 13: Repeat R 2 - 5 twice.
R 14 - 15: Repeat R 2 and 3.
Measure from puff to puff:
7 puffs width x 4 puff rows = 4 x 4"
Helpful videos:
Foundation single crochet:
Starting from the yoke, follow instructions for your size:
CH1 does not count as a stitch throughout.
Start with the main colour and FSC 96 (96 sts). Slst into the first stitch to form a circle, be careful not to twist your circle.
R 1 (RS): ch 1, sc around (96 sts). Change to accent colour with a slst.
Tip: mark the first and the last stitch of the round with a stitch marker.
R 2 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (96 sts).
R 3 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (96 sts). Change to the main colour.
R 4 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (120 sts).
R 5 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (120 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 6 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (120 sts).
R 7 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (120 sts). Change to the main colour.
R 8 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (144 sts).
R 9 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (144 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 10 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (144 sts).
R 11 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (144 sts). Change to the main colour.
R 12 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (168 sts).
R 13 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (168 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 14 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (168 sts).
R 15 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (168 sts). Change to the main colour.
R 16 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 6 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (192 sts).
R 17 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (192 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 18 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (192 sts).
R 19 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (192 sts). Change to the main colour. SMALL skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 20 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (216 sts).
R 21 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (216 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 22 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (216 sts).
R 23 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (216 sts). Change to the main colour. MEDIUM skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 24 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (240 sts).
R 25 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (240 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 26 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (240 sts).
R 27 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (240 sts). Change to the main colour. LARGE skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 28 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 9 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (264 sts).
R 29 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (264 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 30 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (264 sts).
R 31 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (264 sts). Change to the main colour. XL skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 32 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 10 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (288 sts).
R 33 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (288 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 34 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (288 sts).
R 35 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (288 sts). Change to the main colour. 2XL skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 36 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 11 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (312 sts).
R 37 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (312 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 38 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (312 sts).
R 39 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (312 sts). Change to the main colour. 3XL skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 40 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 12 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (336 sts).
R 41 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (336 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 42 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (336 sts).
R 43 (RS): ch 1, turn work, sc into every st around, slst into beg ch-1 to finish (336 sts). Change to the main colour. 4XL skip to Arm/Body Split.
R 44 (WS): ch 1, turn work, hdc into next 13 sts, 2hdc in next st, repeat from to , slst to top of first st (360 sts).
R 45 (RS): ch 1, turn work, BLOsc around (360 sts). Change to the accent colour.
R 42 (WS): ch 1, turn work, sc into the next stitch, ps into the next stitch, repeat from to , slst to top of beg ch-1 to finish (360 sts). Change to the main colour. 5XL skip to Arm/Body Split.
Arm/body split (follow instructions for your size):
R 1: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), hdc 54 (63, 72, 81, 87, 96, 105, 114), ch 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8), skip 42 (45, 48, 51, 57, 60, 63, 66), hdc 54 (63, 72, 81, 87, 96, 105, 114), ch 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8), skip 42 (45, 48, 51, 57, 60, 63, 66), slst to beg ch-1 to finish (120, 138, 156, 174, 190, 208, 226, 244 sts).
Tip: do not make your chain too tight, it will be hard to work into it.
Try on your top to check if your arms fit through comfortably, if your arm hole is too tight, go back a step and add multiples of 2 chains per side, if your arm hole is too large reduce the chains per side by multiples of 2. Just remember that the number of stitches you have to skip does not change.
R 2 onwards: You will be working in a continuous round making hdc sts into each st until you reach the desired length for your top. (120, 138, 156, 174, 190, 208, 226, 244 sts). End with sc and slst to level off the round. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Tip: aim to finish the round either at the side or the back of your sweater to make the ribbing join less visible.
Bottom ribbing
With the right side of your work facing you, attach the accent colour to the last stitch, the same one you made the slst into.
Chain 15, starting from the second chain from your hook, sc into each chain (14 sts).
Slst into the next 3 stitches* at the base of your sweater, ch 1 and rotate your work, so that you can work back into the single crochet stitches.
* if you would like your ribbing to be looser, slst into 2 stitches instead of 3, rest of the instructions will remain unchanged. Photos are showing the ribbing how I made it, with slst into 3 base sts.
BLOsc 13, sc into the final stitch, ch 1, rotate your work and sc into the first stitch, then BLOsc 13, slst into next three sts of the base, ch 1, rotate your work. Repeat from to , until you reach the beginning ch-15 (omit last sc, BLOsc 13, slst 3, ch 1).
You may have to make the very last one into the stitch where your yarn is attached.
Sc through both sides of your work, joining the ribbing together. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Neckline ribbing
With the right side of your work facing you, attach the accent colour to any stitch.
Tip: aim to start the round either at the side or the back of your sweater to make the ribbing join less visible.
Chain 6, starting from the second chain from your hook, sc into each chain (5 sts).
Slst into the next 2 stitches at the top of your sweater, ch 1 and rotate your work, so that you can work back into the single crochet stitches.
BLOsc 4, sc into the final stitch, ch 1, rotate your work and sc into the first stitch, then BLOsc 4, slst into next two sts of the top, ch 1, rotate your work. Repeat from to , until you reach the beginning ch-6 (omit last sc, BLOsc 4, slst 2, ch 1).
Sc through both sides of your work, joining the ribbing together. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Arms (follow instructions for your size)
S, M, L, XL
With the right side of your work facing you, join the main colour to the stitch before the ch-6 at the armpit of your sweater.
If you had adjusted your chain counts when making the body/arm split, you will have either a shorter or longer chain. You should still attach your yarn at the stitch just before your chain stitches.
R 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), hdc into the same st, then hdc into every st around, end with slst into the beg ch-1 (48, 51, 54, 57, 65, 68, 71, 74 sts).
R 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), hdc into the same st, hdc dec three times, then hdc into every st around (45, 48, 51, 54 sts).
If you are working with adjusted chain count, decrease accordingly (we are decreasing across the chain stitches only to give the sleeve a better shape).
R 3 onwards: You will be working in a continuous round making hdc sts into each st until you reach the desired length for your sleeve. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Repeat from R 1 for the other sleeve, making sure your sleeves are the same length in round counts.
2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL
With the right side of your work facing you, join the main colour to the stitch before the ch-8 at the armpit of your sweater.
If you had adjusted your chain counts when making the body/arm split, you will have either a shorter or longer chain. You should still attach your yarn at the stitch just before your chain stitches.
R 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), hdc into the same st, then hdc into every st around, end with slst into the beg ch-1 (65, 68, 71, 74 sts).
R 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), hdc into the same st, hdc dec three times, then hdc into every st around (61, 64, 67, 70 sts).
If you are working with adjusted chain count, decrease accordingly (we are decreasing across the chain stitches only to give the sleeve a better shape).
R 3 onwards: You will be working in a continuous round making hdc sts into each st until you reach the desired length for your sleeve. Fasten off and cut yarn.
Repeat from R 1 for the other sleeve, making sure your sleeves are the same length in round counts.
Sleeves ribbing
Follow the instructions for either the bottom ribbing or the neckline ribbing, depending on the look you prefer.
Weave in all ends and your Wild Winterberry Sweater is done!
Hope you enjoyed making this pattern, if you have any questions about it, you can message me via Instagram @LunaCrochetDesigns or email LunaCrochetDesigns@gmail.com
TERMS OF USE
© This pattern is written & designed by me, the owner of Luna Crochet Designs.
I have devoted a lot of time and love in designing this pattern: taking photos, writing the instructions and making them as clear as possible. Please respect my rights, and do not claim the pattern as your own, do not share, or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission. However, you are free to sell items created using the pattern. Please tag me on social media @lunacrochetdesigns #lunacrochetdesigns #wildwinterberrysweater, I would love to see your work. Any questions, please get in touch. Thank you, Kat.
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